Small Bites: Cheeky Monkey shines; Chianti Grill is nice and fresh
By Kathie Jenkins, Pioneer Press
Updated: 02/18/2009 04:41:36 PM CST

What's black and white and red all over?

No, it's not a newspaper or a blushing zebra. It's Cheeky Monkey Deli on Selby Avenue in St. Paul.

The new fast-casual spot, done up in black, red and white, radiates urban chic. It has a deli counter, fireplace, a communal table for large groups and a cozy seating area for tete-a-tetes.

There are two big water jugs, one with floating slices of cucumber, the other with slices of lemon; your choice, help yourself. And, even more important, the food is great.

At lunch there are soups, salads and sandwiches. After 3 p.m., offerings also include a few hot dishes (called "hot pots and plates"), vegetables sides and a cheese board.

I tried the shrimp salad with chickpeas, cucumber and mixed greens. It was tossed with a citrus and cilantro vinaigrette that gave it lots of flavor.

The bean soup with bacon and the tomato soup both tasted homemade. But the real standout was the pot roast sandwich with arugula, pickled onion and horseradish sauce. I'd definitely order that again. Ditto for the orange poundcake.

If the level of food and service continues, St. Paul has a winner. Cheeky Monkey!

Cheeky Monkey Deli, 525 Selby Ave., St. Paul; 651-224-6066; cheekymonkeydeli. com. Open for lunch and dinner daily. Prices $2 to $10.